The landscape is sparse and stretches away from the small village of Dholavira in the West Indian state of Gujarat. Here and there are some small trees and bushes, beyond that only dry land. Heat and sunshine have shaped the land. An inhospitable place to live and yet the capital of a long lost culture: about 4500 years ago, Kotada timba, one of the largest cities of its time and cradle of the Harappans culture, stood here.
For around 1200 years, from about 2650 to 1450 BC, the ancient mega-city was inhabited before it disappeared in the sands of time. The remains of the settlement were discovered at the end of the 1960s and have been partially excavated in several campaigns since the 1990s. Today it is an archaeological meeting place that attracts mainly local tourists. Jamal Bhai R Makhwana has been in Dholavira since the beginning of the excavation work over 25 years ago, first as a translator for the international archaeological teams, today as a kind of caretaker. He has learned a lot during this time, both about archaeology, but even more for the people. "Every stone here speaks to me," the 52-year-old is convinced. He feels connected to the place and its rediscovered history in a special way. His knowledge he therefore gladly passes on to the visitors who visit the excavation site and the small adjacent museum.